目錄
2021 / 10 秋季 Fall season
大霸尖山遊記摘要 Abstract of Mount Dabajian Hiking Record
位於苗栗泰安鄉的大霸尖山海拔 3505公尺，小霸尖山海拔3418公尺，一般需要住宿於九九山莊最少一晚～兩晚，由大鹿林道步行17公里進入，再陡升700公尺至九九山莊後，再爬升700公尺，則抵達大小霸尖山，沿路風景壯麗可看到周圍雪山圈谷連稜，與那大霸尖山豎立於眼前那般莊嚴與震撼，值得親臨體會(・∀・)
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Mount Dabajin is located at Miaoli Taian(苗栗泰安鄉）with elevation 3505 meter and small Dabajin is 3418 meter. Basically hikers need to walk 17 km from trailhead throught Dululin road(大鹿林道), then go uphill for elevation 700 meter to nine nine cabin(九九山莊）for rest 1 night~ 2 night, then keep going uphill 700 meter to summit at Mount Dabajin. It’s amazing and fabulous to watch huge brown mount Dabajin front of your face and walk at ridge surrounding by mountains. It’s really worthy to see and experience incredible nature in Mount Dabajin trail(・∀・)
路線摘要
- 交通路線：開車至觀霧森林遊樂區裡的大鹿林道東線，繳交入園證後管理員則會放行進入。
- 花費時間：三天 （1st day:10 hr , 2nd day:12 hr, 3rd day: 8 hr)
- 最高海拔：大霸尖山 3505公尺, 小霸尖山 3418 公尺
- 爬升海拔：約1400公尺
- 難度：☆☆☆☆
- 建議攜帶物品：登山杖/兩公升用水/午餐/行動糧/頭燈/輕量換洗衣物
- Transportation：Drive to East branch of Dululin road (大鹿林道東線) at Guanwu national park(觀霧森林遊樂區）. Then give park permit to staff , then he will open the gate for you. i will introduce the park permit later.
- Spend time： 3 days (1st day:10 hr , 2nd day:12 hr, 3rd day: 8 hr)
- Highest Elevation：Mount Dabajin 3505 meter, smaller one is 3418 m
- Difference in elevation : 1400 meter roughly
- Difficulty：☆☆☆☆
- Carry-on items: Treking pole/2 liter of water/lunch and food/headlamp/Clothes to change for 3 days.
【登山路線】Hiking Trail Route
可以根據離線地圖找尋正確攀登路線，從大鹿林道登山口行走17公里後經過馬達拉溪營地後，過完吊橋後上攀700公尺至九九山莊，再繼續東行上升700公尺抵達大霸尖山/小霸尖山上的稜線. 沿路行經伊澤山與加利山。
You can check offline navigation map to check trail direction in detail. Walk 17 km from Dalulin road trailhead and pass by Madulaxi campground(馬達拉溪營地）and bridgt, then go uphill with elevation 700 meter to nine nine cabin. Keep to east direction with uphill 700 meters to ridge and Mount Dabalin, will meet the Yi ze mountain (伊澤山）and Jin li mountain（加利山）on the way.
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如何申請進入大霸尖山？
【大霸尖山入園證】Park Permit
要住宿於九九山莊之前，需要先在台灣國家公園入園入山網頁提出申請，現在台灣人可於出發日兩個月前上網登記抽籤。抽籤結果會以寄電子信到電子信箱做確認。
Before booking the nine nine cabin, you need to apply and enter related information in Taiwan national park for park permit website , at least submit requirement before 65 days and you can submit it before 3 months of departure. And system will draw lots to decide who can sleep in nine nine cabin. So it’s not all of people can access into nine nine cabin even they submited the park permit application. Whether you get the draw for nine nice cabin or not, taiwan national park will send the e-mail to your mailbox for the confirmation.
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路線圖文記錄
7:25 a.m. 抵達觀霧森林遊樂區 Arrived Guanwu park.
7:45 a.m. 大霸尖山登山服務站，這邊會有管理者收取入園證並放行登山客。
Mount Dabajin service center at trailhead of Dalulin road, there will be staff to check whether you have park permit or not, then let you access into trail.
8:00 a.m. 我跟夥伴們使用人力推車來載三個人的重裝背包(´･ω･`) 完全手拉的推車，大約三人的背包有30幾公斤重，取代直接背在背後，跟夥伴輪流手拉車。
Instead of backpacking on back, my partners bring the small trolley to carry all backpacks for 3 persons, then 3 of us can pull it manually by turns.
由於大鹿林道禁止登山客使用交通工具，除了特殊人員之外，都要靠自己的力量背負重物進去，這邊使用人力手拉車，會稍微輕鬆一點。
Basically Dalulin road inhibit any transportaion to access , except some people are working here or else, everyone need to carry on their own backpacking to get through this 17 km. Here we use the small trolley to pull it manually, it’s a bit easier to walk on Dalulin road.
沿路都有小溪，作為飲用水或簡單炊煮都很方便
Along the Dalulin road, you will see creek many times and it’s pretty good if you need drinking water or cooking.
10K 附近 Around 10k in Dalulin road
11:48 a.m. 抵達東線瀑布，在10月中水量相當大。 Dongsian waterfall, it’s plenty of water at October.
附近有座工寮，裡頭有協作擺放的衣物跟物品，那時剛好有九九山莊的太陽能板電池搬運工程，住了不少工人於此。
Near the Dong sian waterfall, there is small house living the people who working here in recent.
12:39 p.m. 抵達岔路處，此處可續走平路至馬達拉溪營地，或者直切捷徑到營地，會少走2~3 公里。Arrived the branchroad, one is to keep going Dalulin road to Madalaxi campground and another is to directly shortcut to Madalaxi campground. Shortcut help you to save 2~ 3 km to walk.
捷徑上的路 , Steep road in the shortcut route.
1:13 p.m. 抵達馬達拉溪營地附近，有廁所可以使用
Arrived Madalaxi campground, toilet here could be used for free.
2:30 p.m. 過橋後準備要上攀約700公尺多到九九山莊
After passed the red bridge, it’s time to go uphill with elevation 700 m to nine nine cabin. Actually it’s quite late to departure from here, my partner and i were cooking lunch for 1 hour.
路上還有門牌的工寮.
開始陡升的山路
Steep road along the Dabajin trail
中途有片許多二葉松的森林, There are Pinus Taiwanensis forest on the way
5:30 p.m. 抵達九九山莊，此時已經有許多隊伍都已經到了再吃晚餐。
Arrived nine nine cabin, there are many hiking groups already arrived and ate dinner in lobby.
室內用餐的環境
Lobby for cooking and eating.
我跟同行夥伴一起買布農協作的餐，一晚餐＋一早餐＋睡袋總共1000NT/一晚，
晚餐有靚魚，滷排骨，小黃瓜，香腸，高麗菜，雞腿肉。
My partner and i were booking the dinner/breakfast from indigenous people who especailly provide cooking service in nine nine cabin. This service needs to book 3 days ago before departure, and it takes 1000 NT for breakfast ,dinner and sleeping bad for rental per night.
雖然餐點不算是非常好吃，但光是要背上這些食材並大火加熱過，能夠在高山上吃到這樣溫暖的晚餐，已經很感激了。
九九山莊內部有蒙古包還有大型通舖。
Several Mongolian yurt and wide bed for a numbers of people in nine nine cabin as below pictures.
由於上來的時間點剛好處於疫情期間，山屋住宿人數限制為原數量一半，確保大家分開睡，而實際狀況是我睡的這一區僅有兩隊人，其他全是空的（如下圖）
第一天歷經快12小時且近天黑才抵達山莊，渾身汗臭下，好在九九山莊內有提供簡易洗澡間，可以冷水擦澡，雖然很冷但身上粘膩感消除後舒適很多。
It’s grateful that Nine nine cabin provide simplified shower room, helping hikers to wash out all sweat on body. Very appeciated that i feel much better after that. Even it only has freezing cold water for shower, it’s still helpful.
Second Day Morning – 第二天一早
4:00 a.m. 其他隊伍從半夜一點開始就在整隊出發非常吵雜，我的隊伍則是繼續睡到三點多，再緩慢的去大廳吃協作準備的早餐，有滿福堡夾火腿，肉鬆，竹筍，起司
my partners and i were woke up late, all of other hiking group already departure. Indigenout people prepare warm breakfast for us, it includes hamburger buffet, bamboo, cheese and etc.
5:25 a.m. 即將破曉的早晨,出發往大霸尖山
Almost sunrise… departure from nine nine cabin
6:00 a.m. 抵達往加利山岔路
Arrived the branchroad of Jiali mountain.
續行往大霸尖山
Keep straight to Mount Dabajin
當天天氣十分良好，晴朗又乾燥的氣候，走起來特別心曠神怡
At second day, weather is stable and sunny around Dabajin area.
走在稜線上的風景
Scenery on the ridge of Dabajin trail
8:00 a.m. 抵達中霸山屋，這邊想提一件事，裡頭有個緊急用箱子，裡面提供簡易糧食跟高山瓦斯，食物還不少。
Arrived Zhongba cabin(中霸山屋）, here has an emergence box packing cookie/instant noodle/liquid gas canister…etc for people who really need it.
裡頭還有高壓艙
There is hyperbaric oxygen chamber inside cabin as well.
8:17 a.m. 來到中霸坪，不免俗的要跟500元一起合照一張啦！
Arrived Zhongba lawn, Taiwan 500 bill has Mount Dabajin picture, and which was taking shot here.
石松科的玉柏 , 輕拍一下會有許多粉跑出來
Lycopodium obscurum，Many powder comes out if you touch it…
8:45 a.m. 抵達大霸尖山前，壯麗的景色非常驚人，搭配背後的藍天，這座山為當地泰雅族的聖山，自從數年前就禁止人們攀登頂部了，而最早在日治時期，就有記錄日本人率原住民與各路攀岩好手登頂，在1900年代日本人在台灣掀起一股登山熱。
Arrived Mount Dabajin, blue sky with huge Dabajin is super impressive and amazing to see it. This mountain is holy to local Taiya tribe so its summit inhibit to reach several years ago since 2010. In very earliest period in 1900s, Japan occupation period, Japanese were reach to summit then and super popular to attracts many people to come for hiking.
在數十年前，還可以攀登山頂時，在大壩後方架設了許多釘子，現在已經拆除。
Several decades ago, people setup many ropes at backside of Mount Dabajin. Now they already were torn down to prevent people climbing up.
往小霸尖山的稜線. Ridge to Xiabajin mountain (小霸尖山）
往小霸尖山最後一段，需要攀岩在陡峭的地形上，一不小心還是可能會踩空掉落。
Last trail to Xiabajin mountain, it needs to climb on rocky terrain and pretty ricky.
回望大霸尖山
Looking to the direction of Mount Dabajin.
10:00 a.m. 抵達小霸尖山山頂，當天天空恰好非常乾淨，在山頂甚至看到台北八里的觀音山，周圍的雪山圈谷和桃山品田斷崖盡收眼底。
Reach to summit of Xiabajin mountain. Luckily, sky is super clean with slight cloud, even partner and i can see Guan yin mountain（觀音山） in TAIPEI bali (台北八里）which is far away from here.
在山頂可見遠方（照片左邊後方）, 清楚可見有南湖大山山頂與中央尖山山頂。
Mount Chungyangjian and Mount Nanhu both are clearly see from here, it’s at left side of below picture.
回程在竹林間可見往雪山的岔路，即聖稜線。
During head back to nine nine cabin, branchroad to Syue mountain(雪山）which is famous holy ridgeline in Taiwan.
回程路上下午一點準時開飯，炒了個蝦米香菇高麗菜，香味四溢。
1 p.m. Start cooking lunch, i just fried the cabbage with mashroom and small shrimp and it smells really good.
5:00 p.m.終於返回到九九山莊，路上不斷湧起因熱氣遇冷凝結上升的朵朵白雲
Finally back to nine nine cabin, there are many cloud generating and up to hill
第三天一早 6:00 a.m. 因為行程不緊湊，四處晃晃看有什麼設施，剛好看到剛架好的太陽能板，螺絲跟配件都非常極度新，難怪第三天開始手機訊號就變得非常好。
Third day – wake up at 6 a.m. and wander around nine nine cabin, then just found the new solar panel setup completly in recent. No wonder cell phone signal become super well today.
7:00 a.m. 出發
Departure
下切後完續走大鹿林道，在這個季節10月，有許多小木通開花了 (・∀・)
Dalulin road has many Armand Clematis in October (・∀・)
在回程路上的風景，依然很曬但很美
4:30 p.m. 抵達登山口回家，這一路感謝夥伴們一路的陪伴與支持，一起分享路上的各種風景，還有注意彼此身體狀況與支援，很高興在這個年紀遇到可以一起爬大山的夥伴 — 致 同行的夥伴
4:30 p.m. arrived the trailhead and ready to back home. Very grateful and appreciated that my partners company with me all the way and enjoy the magnificent view. Carefully check any hiking route and keep following weather prediction. i can’t have this journey without any of you.
—To my Partners.