目錄
天氣多雲時晴
在台北102縣道的最高點不厭亭，有來來去去的遊客，還有旁邊一座平坦的寬山頭立在一旁高點，就是牡丹山，海拔654公尺，可以清楚見到周圍平溪石碇與五分山雷達站，隔壁的燦光寮山接續半屏山茶壺山近在眼前。登山口就位於不厭亭附近一個不起眼但布滿登山條的路上，往來的行人幾乎只往不厭亭拍照或是在一旁的香腸攤買點點心，而一路在牡丹山的山路上一人也沒有，平緩的山路適合一般人前往，看看山海一線的好風景。
位於不厭亭附近約步行20分鐘路程的大粗坑古道入口，為早期通往九份與大粗坑聚落兩邊的聯絡道路，而當中的天梯，就建在聚落之上，立於大自然山中的長梯顯得非常特別突出！早期天梯底下的大粗坑聚落稱為“小美國”而九份為“小上海”，早期大粗坑聚落居民因發現小金瓜露頭黃金礦源而繁榮的聚落，當地民眾前往九份消費時，因花費闊綽被稱為美國仔。 來這裡造訪不厭亭或九份的同時，除了賞山海景之外也適合來這裡懷古尋幽探舊幾十年前採礦歷史與舊城。(・∀・)
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路線資訊
以下為攀登牡丹山的基本資訊：
- 交通資訊：自行開車到102縣道上的不厭亭，登山口位於不厭亭附近
- 花費時間：1.5小時
- 海拔高度：654 公尺 （總爬升128 m)
- 建議攜帶物品 : 防曬帽/一公升用水
前往天梯的資訊（大粗坑古道）：
- 交通資訊： 自行開車到102縣道上的大粗坑古道路口，下行約500公尺可見到天梯
Cloudy and sunny day,
There is super wider and flat summit just located at county highway No.102 near by Buyanting(不厭亭）, called as Mudan-shan （牡丹山） with elevation 654 mm. Ping-Xi, Wu-fen shan‘s radar, Tsan-guang-liao shan, Ban-ping shan and Cha-hu shan are all clear seen at summit with fabulous view and it’s only few people visiting place. Trailhead just around Buyanting with many sign at trailhead and will described later in article below. Most of people only visit Buyanting and BBQ sausage street vendor here in contrast with Mudan Shan. Mudan-shan is worthy to visit and wonderful with magnificent view, it doesn’t need to much advanced skill to summit.
Da-cukeng trail is located at county highway No.102 and takes around 20 minutes walking to here from Buyanting, it was old trail connecting with gold-mining town Da-cuken （大粗坑）and Jenfen city (九份). Giant ladder is located at Da-cukeng trail and above the old mining city Da-cukeng, it’s really special and unusual appearing at many green mountains. In the very begining of 1900, people who lived in Da-cukeng city was called as ” American” and they were so rich that spend many money at Jenfen city in old days. This trail filled with historical building and old mining city memory and really worthy to visit if come to here. (・∀・)
- Below items are basic information for Mudan-shan
- Transportation：Drive to buyanting at county highway No.102 and trailhead is around here.
- Spend time：1.5 hours
- Elevation：Mudan-shan
- Difference in elevation : 128 m
- Difficulty：☆
- Carry-on items: Bonnie/ 1 liter water/food
- Below items are information for Dacu-keng trail and giant ladder
- Transportation: Drive to Dacu-keng trailhead and will see giant ladder after keep straight 500 m
下圖的高峰是燦光寮山與左側的半屏山連稜，山頂上的平台具有360度的無遮攔風景(*≧▽≦)
Tsan guang-liao shan and Ban-ping shan can be seen at below picture and both can be seen at summit with wonderful view(*≧▽≦)
路線圖文紀錄
2:00 p.m. 到達牡丹山登山口，路口隱藏在小徑當中，可以參考下圖知道登山口位置，大約為在不厭亭路口在往前十公尺處。位於雙溪區與瑞芳區告示綠牌的下方附近。
2:00 p.m. arrived Mudan-shan trailhead and it hides at county highway No.102. You can check it out below picture for detailed trailhead location which is around 10 meter away from Buyanting and near the sign of Shuangxi District/Ruifang District.
路口處會有多條登山布條暗示前往牡丹山。
找不到的人可以多留意這一點來找到隱密的登山口 (´･ω･`)
Many sign at trailhead hint the Mudan-shan’s direction. It’s better to check if you can’t find out the entrance to Mudan-shan.(´･ω･`)
參考地圖跟等高線可以知道，從不厭亭附近的登山口會一路上升到稜線，接下就一路走平坦的山路到牡丹山山頂～
可以參考我的另一篇網誌介紹關於登山離線地圖的使用方法，就可以快速知道明確的登山口與路線圖囉！
Based on map with contour line, trail will gradually ascend to ridge. After arrive ridge, trail become flat and easy to walk on it to summit.
Visit my another aricle about “offline navigation app application” to quick know how to search and understand detailed information of Muda-shan trail.
起頭大約會短短的爬升120公尺，一路兩旁皆沒有遮蔭，不過路跡清楚很好行走，撐過這一段後就可以很輕鬆的在稜線上欣賞兩旁的風景慢慢的走向山頂囉(・∀・)
No shadow at the begining of trail, and total ascend 120 mm to summit. Trail is pretty clear and recognized easily.
爬升時隨時往回頭看，都可以見到渺小的不厭亭與周邊的群山一覽無遺
If you look back during asending, you can see Buyanting and endless mountains around you.
上升到稜線後，一就路像右方照片山徑一樣平坦路到山頂，同時因為兩旁都是芒草，整路上不會有任何遮蔭的樹蔭，適合秋高氣爽的天氣或多雲時節來探訪比較好，否則很容易曬成人乾囉(´･ω･`)
After arrived to ridge, both side are full of miscanthus and no shadow as wll. It’s better to visit during fall/spring season othereise it will super sweating at sunny day (´･ω･`)
2:17 p.m.到達山頂，只花約20分鐘的時間登頂，山頂具有一顆三角點。
除了來不厭亭拍拍照之外，來旁邊的小山走走外也可再順訪附近的大粗坑古道/貂山古道/金字碑古道。
2:17 p.m. arrive Mudan-shan summit, it takes 20 minutes from trailhead.
Besides visiting Buyanting/Mudan-shan, you can also check out adjacent Da-cukeng trail(大粗坑）/Diao-shan trail(貂山古道）/Jinzibei trail （金字碑古道）as well.
山頂上因為毫無遮蔭，風景360度的寬廣連延山脈景色一字排開，前方的燦光寮山739m比牡丹山還略高了80公尺左右。當天因為是多雲時晴的天氣，山頂也有涼風加上四處無一人，幽靜的享受山上的風景一待就快三點才繼續前往下一站(´･ω･`)
There are no trees or bushes to give shade at summit but with endless mountains with 360° view of mountains view will be in front of you! Tsan-guang liao shan 739 mm is in front of you as well and taller 85 mm than Mu-dan shan(654mm). Cool wind with cloudy weater and no people here at summit, it’s suitable to stay longer here and enjoy scenery and i even stay 30 minutes here (´･ω･`)
其實除了山頂上風景，有另外一處筆者我更推薦休息看風景，繼續從三角點往前行到底，左轉往電塔平台方向，平台上有更好的展望可以清楚看到東北角海岸與很茶壺山。
而右轉的山路則是往山腳上的草山戰備道路，但近日探訪往草山戰備道路的山徑已經荒煙漫草，不確定下切的路線好不好走所以直接折返選擇原路回去。
Besides Mudan-shan summit, there will be another spot recommeneded for you. It will be flat platform to take rest with even better view if keep going straight from summit.
You wil see the branchload to electrical tower if choose left as right figure, and tsao-shan chan-pei road（草山戰備道）if choose right. But trail at right side have been full of Mucanthus and difficult to walk.
2:58 p.m.到達電塔下方處，走到可以見到山海一線與東北角風景，還有牡丹山牌子660m的告示牌也在此地。
2:58 p.m. arrived electroal tower platform, here you can see ocean/mountain view clearly and sign of Mudan-shan is located at this place with remarked 660mm.
天氣好就是一片湛藍的海搭上茶壺山近在眼前～下圖右方是茶壺山
Crystal blue ocean and Cha-hu shan(茶壺山） are front of you~ Cha-hu shan is located at right side of below picture.
整趟牡丹山之行大約只需要一小時就可以完成來回，算是很輕鬆又可以飽覽美景CP值很高的一座小山。
Basically Mudan-shan only takes 1 hours to complete trail, it’s pretty easy to visit and worthy to go.
大約三點半離開牡丹山登山口後，前往瑞雙公路上的大粗坑古道入口處，入口處有一座石碑寫著“大粗坑古道”，探訪早期大粗坑聚落先民幾十年前來往九份的古道與隱藏在山中的超長天梯！
Back to trailhead at 3:30 p.m. , and forward to Dacu-keng （大粗坑）trailhead at rui shuang highway（瑞雙公路）. There will be a stone stela marked “Dacu-ken trail” at Dacu-keng trailhead, here you can visit the old trail which was one of way to Jen-fen for the people lived in ancient times and giant ladder.
天梯的歷史
往大粗坑古道往下走大約五百公尺，就會遇到天梯的入口。以前在清朝光緒1890年有先民在基隆河段修築鐵路時發現沙金，1889年往基隆河上游發展，在大粗坑與小粗坑聚落這裡發現了大量金礦礦脈，即九份山頂上的小金瓜露頭，要去小金瓜石露頭的話，在大粗坑古道入口旁邊幾公尺處的柵欄入口直走進去就會看到露頭步道幾分鐘就可抵達。
下圖左側是天梯位置示意圖，入口位於產業道路旁，直接從古道入口步行到此也很方便。
Giant ladder is located at 500 meter away from Dacu-keng trail. In 1890 year, people found gold sand at Ji-long river(基隆河）during train construction work. Besides Ji-long river, people keep searching upstream of JI-long river for gold sand as well, fortunatly, Jenf-en summit was found huge gold mining which was around the Dacu-keng city. Currently visotor can see the mining at the “Jiu gua lou tou trail” (金瓜露頭）which is 1 minutes walking way away from Dacu-keng trail.
Below left diagrame is the schmatic of giant ladder location, it onlys takes roughly 10 miuntes walking from entrance of Dacu-keng trailhead.
大粗坑聚落在民國五十,六十年代因為礦業蓬勃的關係與金瓜石,瑞芳合稱為瑞芳三大金都，可見得早期之繁榮，以前居住於大粗坑/小粗坑聚落的居民要前往九份與猴硐只有兩條路，一條是大粗坑古道，另一條即是小粗坑古道，兩條中間還有一條山腰古道。據說以前大粗坑人來到九份拜訪時，九份店家的人都會大聲歡呼說：『“美國仔”來了！～』[4]，或許是因為金礦礦脈的豐碩讓粗坑人出手都很闊綽的關係? 好奇之下查到有相關論文討論昔日此地礦工每日收穫1兩-5兩不等，一兩即50克，若是換算成現在的金價一克1500來算，每一日都相當于賺了七八萬塊以上，當然昔日的金價非常便宜不如現在(´･ω･`)
但是在近代民國73年的瑞芳煤礦火災造成一百多人死亡，與民國76年的琳恩颱風，都重創了這一帶的礦石產業，政府開始轉往國外進口燃煤並輔導煤礦業者轉型與相關新煤礦開採政策，颱風帶來的土石流也摧毀了粗坑聚落，逐漸落寞的採礦城市，除了現今九份依然有非常多的遊客來探訪，但是周遭的產礦村落卻逐漸湮沒，不妨來九份走走時，也來探訪一下這邊的古蹟遺址，據諸多遊記記載，許多旅人來這裡探訪時大德宮常有大粗坑本地人來清掃並說明當地的歷史，或許有更多人的來訪與紀錄，大粗坑的記憶才會真正的永存在人們心中。
Dacu-keng （大粗坑）city, Rui-keng （瑞芳） and Jiu gua shi (金瓜石） are named as ” Top three gold minging city” at 1960-1970 decades. Only 2 way can be contacted between Houtong （猴硐）and Jen-feng (九份）city are Dacu-keng trail ,Xiao-cukeng trail. It’s said that people pend many money earned from many gold mining and were called as ” Americans are coming~!” by Jen-fen city’s street vendor in old times. From the study of Da-cukeng mining history report, people can mining 50 gram – 250 gram of gold per day. It’s equal to 70k-80k NT dollars earning per day if the gold price counted as current exchange rate. (´･ω･`)
While in 1984 Rui-feng catastrophic fire caused to destory mining industry developement and 100 people death at least, in 1987, Lin-en typhoon even destroy houses and construction in mining city seriouly , goverment start to import mining abroad and help mining industry to change their product. However, du-cukeng city become ruin and no people come here to visit nowadays.
Recommend to go wandering around Du-cukeng trail after visit Jen-fen city, you will found many hisorical building and old mining cave here. It’s said that some people who lived in old decades will come to here to clean up the temple “Da-de temple”, they will tell visitors about prosperous story about Dacukeng city, miner and even where still have gold sand. Believe more people come to visit here, then more Dacukeng’s memory will be remembered.
從天梯往下看去，左側小建築物即是大德宮，右邊是猴硐國小大山分校。當時太小的孩子無法自己走到猴硐站上猴硐國小，於是1940年日治時期政府在大粗坑小粗坑分別設立了猴硐公學校，到了民國時期，大粗坑公學校改名為猴硐國小大粗坑大山分校，地點就立在大德宮一旁，並曾有12屆的學生。
From the view of giant ladder, small building at left is “Da-de temple” and at right is elementary school of hou tong which was built in 1940. It has been had 12 session before.
走回大粗坑古道入口時，從側面看去天梯的方向，很剛好可以見到天梯與牡丹山合景。
在大粗坑古道入口旁，有一條步道可以通往金瓜石露頭。
金瓜石露頭有分成“大金瓜露頭”，以及“小金瓜露頭”，位於大粗坑古道旁邊的露頭為“小金瓜露頭”，而大金瓜石露頭則在金瓜石的本山礦場。
小金瓜露頭與大金瓜露頭開採發展大相徑庭，小金瓜在日治時期由精通日文的”台灣人顏雲年“花費30萬元買下小金瓜礦場轉為民營企業，為台陽礦業株式會社，而大金瓜則是引進日本的現代工業化儀器開採礦脈留下大量的設備，日本人為管理階層而台灣人在此固定工作每日領固定工資3-5角不等。
When walking back to Da-cu keng trailhead, Mu-dan shan and giant ladder both can been clear seen together as right figure.
There is trail called as “Jin gua shi lou tou”(金瓜石露頭)which means a mining resource looks like a pumpkin, it just located near by Da-cukeng trailhead.
Actually,”Jin gua shi lou tou” has 2 places, one is small jin gua shi lou tou, another one is big jin gua shi lou tou. The smaller one is near Da-cukeng, another big one is located at Rei-feng city.
In 1930, small Jiun-gua-shi-lou-tou mining industry was bought by Taiwanese Yan Yun-nian(顏雲年）from Japan goverment as 300K Yen so it becomes private enterprise. In contrast, big Jiun-gua-shi lou-tou was managed by Japan goverment with modern equipment and mining wage is 30-50 cent NT per day for Taiwanese.
因為九份山頂的這份大金礦礦源，當時吸引了非常多抱著黃金夢的礦夫來此鑿井，在瑞雙公路上可以看到數個老舊的豎井與平井（如右圖）依然在那裡，有些則被封了起來。
Because huge mining resouce at Jen-fen city, it attracts many miner coming to here to dig well for mining work. You can found many well structure along the Rei-shuang highway and some was closed already as right figure.
現在的小金瓜露頭，以前取名為金瓜是因為外型像南瓜的關係，不過看來現在因為開採已經變成像腰果了(´･_･`)，仔細去現場看的話還可以看到許多的愚人金分佈在露頭上，即黃鐵礦。
Small Jiun-gua-shi-lou-tou looked like pumpkin several decades ago so it was called as “Jiun gua” which meaning is pumpkin. But it was been through too many mining work already, it may looks like cashew nuts now (´･_･`). You can see many pyrite on stone at summit of Jiun-gua-shi-lou-tou trail if you look stone carefully.
Fake gold sand embeded inside stone
從小金瓜石露頭旁的金瓜石山（576m)往下方看去，露頭在照片的中央處(・∀・)，多雲時晴時此處有風舒服又有展望～
From the view of Jiun-gua-shi shan 金瓜石山(576 m) , you can see Jiun-gua-shi-lou-tou（金瓜石露頭） in front of you
(・∀・), here it’s windy and super comfortable with cloudy weather.
同樣從金瓜石山山頂望去，還可見到遠方的基隆山
Ji-long shan(基隆山） can be seen from the Jiun-gua-shi shan summit as well.
返程路上，順道經過米詩提甜點，現在來九份必訪這家的經典泡芙，雖然一顆要價60，但是泡芙餡料超級豐富σ(≧ε≦ｏ)還有芋頭 /鮮奶油/ 地瓜/ 巧克力/ 抹茶的口味可以選！真心覺得好吃，不會到太甜加上千層的酥外皮～很搭
I almost visit Misty store everytime when i go to Jen-feng cuty, even 1 puff takes 60 NT. Their puff has many yummy cream inside puff σ(≧ε≦ｏ) and there are taro/sweet patato/chocolate/mocha /milk favor to choose! It’s pretty delicious and tasty !
四顆特價200就買了一盒回家～
每一顆都非常飽滿又大顆！
4 ea takes 200 NT dollars an every puff is very big and full of cream!
結語
這一趟通往九份粗坑古道天梯與牡丹山之行，除了享受山海一線與甜點外，穿梭過去100年採礦工人踩過的道路與看過那繁華過的聚落，就會發現裡頭有想不到的龐大歷史在裡頭，就算現在看起來已經一片平和祥靜，只剩下了荒蕪與大自然。
若是文章內有錯誤，歡迎留言或寄信告訴我，感謝大家閱讀！
This trail to Mudan shan / Jen-fen Da-cukeng can be really enjoyable with wonderful mountain view and crystal blue ocean, historical trail walked by miner 100 years ago and old buildings. It’s unbelievable that it’s prosperous and full of people before, in contrast, nowadays only tree and empty temple stand here with no one quietly.
Feel free to contact me or leave message me if there is mistake in my article, thank you for reading!