【雪山主峰】臺灣百岳雪山主東峰2日

2020.4.3 – 4.4 雪山主東2日

雪山海拔3886公尺,位於苗栗與台中的交界上,搭配一旁的雪山東峰,連續兩座都在台灣百岳名單裡,一般會住宿在369山莊隔天攻頂,或提前一天住在七卡山莊,若是行程充裕或是健腳的人,還可以多走到翠池B級路線,沿路可見壯麗的雪山圈谷與北稜角,以及冷杉,圓柏等植物。

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1.詳細攀登時間紀錄

【第一天】
7:25 雪霸國家公園武陵遊客中心
8:00 雪山登山口
9:00 七卡山屋
10:40 哭坡觀景台
11:55 往東峰岔路
11:57 雪山東峰
13:33 369山莊

雪山登山口 → 哭坡觀景台 4K爬升800公尺
哭坡觀景台 → 雪山東峰 1K爬升400公尺
雪山東峰 → 369山莊 2K 爬升較少忽略不計

【第二天】
4:00 369山莊
6:10 雪山圈谷
7:32 雪山
10:45 369山莊
15:38 七卡山莊
16:32 雪山登山口

369山莊 → 雪山主峰 4K 爬升680公尺

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2.攀登雪山方式與建議

  • 入園申請:要,進入台灣國家公園入園入山線上申請網站,申請入園證。
  • 入山申請:不用,2022/3/31 起雪管處有在官網上宣告不用申請。
  • 申請時間:出發日前5日~2個月可以上網申請,前兩個月一早開始搶山屋。
  • 交通方式:開車至“雪山登山口服務站”,有相當廣大多層的停車位可停
  • 花費時間:2天,移動時間加上中途停下吃飯共18小時
  • 難度:☆☆☆
  • 建議攜帶物品:飲用水/登山杖/兩天份食物/登山帽/保暖防寒衣物/高山爐具/頭燈/防水衣物
  • 停車場:雪山登山口停車場

( ಠ ಠ ) 不過呢,如果讀者想要假日週六出發,週六晚住369山莊,可是要跟眾多的登山客搶,進入前2個月的一大早,早上7點鐘,輸入好基本資料送出,否則是沒辦法搶到位置的喔!
住369山莊不像爬玉山的排雲山莊是隨機抽籤制,爬雪山住山屋是要比誰最快送出(´・ω・`) 
基本上最少要一分鐘內送出,手速或電腦速度太慢就會輸了QQ

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3.如何申請攀爬雪山?

▶▶▶請進入台灣國家公園入園入山線上申請網站
最右邊選擇”入園申請“再選擇”線上入園申請“,按雪霸國家公園。
閱讀完注意事項且同意後,輸入行程/登山入線/隊員資料,在下列時間送出。

 ▶▶▶自進入日期前5天-2個月開放申請,前2個月開始抽籤

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【4.遊記照片紀錄】

▶8:00a.m. 一早抵達雪山登山口,是座可愛的三角屋頂屋,會有管理員在這裡收取你們申請的入園證。 沿路攀爬上山時也有遇到巡山員檢查入園證。

▶ 和夥伴們的背包排排站,每個背包都10~15公斤不等,筆者是第一次攀爬百岳,就獻給雪山了 (・∀・)

▶ 一早有很多從武陵農場來看水池的遊客,不過停車場蠻廣大的不怕沒位置停

▶水池一景,這裡似乎成了一個觀光打卡景點,很多人在登山口拍照

▶剛開始起登的路線是呈之字型往上爬,沿路充滿類似五葉松或二葉松的葉子掉了滿地,鋪成了整路紅紅的地毯

▶剛開始一路到七卡,就不斷爬升,第一次爬百岳沒想過
背著10來斤的背包真的很重(◔ д◔)

▶9:00 a.m.抵達七卡山莊

▶ 外圍處有著桌椅可供休憩

▶指示七卡後的方向指標

▶雖然我和我夥伴沒有要住在七卡山莊,但還是進來看一下,週六一早住客率非常低,幾乎沒人,可以一人包場的程度

▶七卡的廚房

▶ 在七卡小歇吃點東西後繼續走往上攀

▶從登山口到哭坡要爬升800公尺,也是不輕鬆

▶在哭坡的鴿子,來到哭坡觀景台發現不少鳥類會刻意靠近人類,或許是許多遊客都會餵食禽鳥,累積了這樣的習慣 (´・_・`)

▶ 10:40 抵達哭坡觀景台,吃午餐,這時候山上已經起了超大霧,不知道自己在爬什麼

▶偶爾撥雲見日看到遠方要抵達的山峰

▶ 漫漫長路

▶哭坡之所以為哭坡,後來就一路向上陡上,爬到哭出來為止 (×□×;)

▶沿路的林相

▶開始雲霧散去

▶從哭坡開始會上升400公尺到雪山東峰,繼續努力爬

▶開始沿著稜線走

▶在稜線上走一覽雪山上的風景

▶ 前方有著雪山東峰的牌子!經過完這裡後就輕鬆了

▶登愣~往雪山東峰的岔路

▶沿路的風景

▶ 11:57抵達雪山東峰,雖然是週六卻一人也沒有

▶有塊蠻大的空地

▶雲霧繚繞的天氣,偶爾撥雲見日

▶過完東峰後續行,偶爾上上下下小坡,這裡有著廣大停機坪

▶在雪山步道上走著,總是可以看到一大片草原搭配藍天的風景,看了心情就很好

▶路上遇到造型特殊的高山樹種

▶沿路怎麼拍都很漂亮~

▶13:33 p.m.抵達369山莊~

▶369山莊門口

▶內部一景,雖然下午一點半沒什麼人,但是當天晚上幾乎全部住滿

▶369的廁所,有三間,不過沒有水可以使用~

▶門前休憩的地方

▶369的廚房,主要是協作們煮飯的地方,如果是雪山的話,主要有布農跟雲豹兩家可以選,事前聯絡他們來訂餐並事前繳費

▶內部炊煮一景

▶外頭望出去的景色(・∀・) 非常遼闊又浩瀚。我夥伴表示想在這裡度假多天還不用付錢很棒,但是不能洗澡耶?

▶天氣轉好,遠方的東峰盡收眼底

▶晚上布農阿清做的料理好吃~(・∀・)

▶台灣典型的高山協作buffet,鐵盤裝滿熱騰騰食物~不用自己煮很幸福,累了一屁股坐下就有熱飯吃

▶傍晚時刻369山莊旁邊出現可愛的山羌,偶爾盯著人類看,偶爾在認真吃地上的草

▶隔天一大早,2~3點山莊就一堆人要起床,非常吵鬧,很難不被吵醒

▶4點多起登後很快就破曉

▶一剛開始經過的黑森林區域,一致的冷杉林相十分美麗

▶來到雪山圈谷前方,慢慢雲層破開

▶6:10 a.m. 抵達雪山圈谷,冰河時期蝕刻出來的冰河圈谷,這裡是全台灣最大的圈谷~實際現場看十分震撼呢(・∀・)

▶北稜角,有些人除了攀登雪山主峰外會順訪,不過考量下山時間太晚就沒去了

▶往主峰路上走去時,沿路的圓柏十分有型

▶其實在369起登時有飄雨跟飄雪,當時在主峰這裡應該下了不少的雪

▶7:32 a.m.抵達雪山主峰

▶一拍完照就龜縮到旁邊,冷到不行不斷顫抖 ( ಠ ಠ ) 下圖右側有標示往翠持與志佳陽山的標示


在4月的雪山主峰上冷到無法久待,後續就慢速回369山莊,吃完中餐變返回登山口了~

-完-

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•  【大霸尖山】大小霸三日遊記(Mount Dabajian 3 Days)

【大霸尖山】大小霸三日遊記(Mount Dabajian 3 Days)

2021 / 10 秋季 Fall season
大霸尖山遊記摘要 Abstract of Mount Dabajian Hiking Record
位於苗栗泰安鄉的大霸尖山海拔 3505公尺,小霸尖山海拔3418公尺,一般需要住宿於九九山莊最少一晚~兩晚,由大鹿林道步行17公里進入,再陡升700公尺至九九山莊後,再爬升700公尺,則抵達大小霸尖山,沿路風景壯麗可看到周圍雪山圈谷連稜,與那大霸尖山豎立於眼前那般莊嚴與震撼,值得親臨體會(・∀・)

▶你可能有興趣的相關連結◀
【合歡西北】合歡山西峰北峰一日行
【富士山登山自由行】2023年富士宮路線攀登富士山全記錄

Mount Dabajin is located at Miaoli Taian(苗栗泰安鄉)with elevation 3505 meter and small Dabajin is 3418 meter. Basically hikers need to walk 17 km from trailhead throught Dululin road(大鹿林道), then go uphill for elevation 700 meter to nine nine cabin(九九山莊)for rest 1 night~ 2 night, then keep going uphill 700 meter to summit at Mount Dabajin. It’s amazing and fabulous to watch huge brown mount Dabajin front of your face and walk at ridge surrounding by mountains. It’s really worthy to see and experience incredible nature in Mount Dabajin trail(・∀・)

路線摘要

  • 交通路線:開車至觀霧森林遊樂區裡的大鹿林道東線,繳交入園證後管理員則會放行進入。
  • 花費時間:三天 (1st day:10 hr , 2nd day:12 hr, 3rd day: 8 hr)
  • 最高海拔:大霸尖山 3505公尺, 小霸尖山 3418 公尺
  • 爬升海拔:約1400公尺
  • 難度:☆☆☆☆
  • 建議攜帶物品:登山杖/兩公升用水/午餐/行動糧/頭燈/輕量換洗衣物
  • Transportation:Drive to East branch of Dululin road (大鹿林道東線) at Guanwu national park(觀霧森林遊樂區). Then give park permit to staff , then he will open the gate for you. i will introduce the park permit later.
  • Spend time: 3 days (1st day:10 hr , 2nd day:12 hr, 3rd day: 8 hr)
  • Highest Elevation:Mount Dabajin 3505 meter, smaller one is 3418 m
  • Difference in elevation : 1400 meter roughly
  • Difficulty:☆☆☆☆
  • Carry-on items: Treking pole/2 liter of water/lunch and food/headlamp/Clothes to change for 3 days.

【登山路線】Hiking Trail Route
可以根據離線地圖找尋正確攀登路線,從大鹿林道登山口行走17公里後經過馬達拉溪營地後,過完吊橋後上攀700公尺至九九山莊,再繼續東行上升700公尺抵達大霸尖山/小霸尖山上的稜線. 沿路行經伊澤山與加利山。

You can check offline navigation map to check trail direction in detail. Walk 17 km from Dalulin road trailhead and pass by Madulaxi campground(馬達拉溪營地)and bridgt, then go uphill with elevation 700 meter to nine nine cabin. Keep to east direction with uphill 700 meters to ridge and Mount Dabalin, will meet the Yi ze mountain (伊澤山)and Jin li mountain(加利山)on the way.

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如何申請進入大霸尖山?

【大霸尖山入園證】Park Permit
要住宿於九九山莊之前,需要先在台灣國家公園入園入山網頁提出申請,現在台灣人可於出發日兩個月前上網登記抽籤。抽籤結果會以寄電子信到電子信箱做確認。

Before booking the nine nine cabin, you need to apply and enter related information in Taiwan national park for park permit website , at least submit requirement before 65 days and you can submit it before 3 months of departure. And system will draw lots to decide who can sleep in nine nine cabin. So it’s not all of people can access into nine nine cabin even they submited the park permit application. Whether you get the draw for nine nice cabin or not, taiwan national park will send the e-mail to your mailbox for the confirmation.

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路線圖文記錄

7:25 a.m. 抵達觀霧森林遊樂區 Arrived Guanwu park.

7:45 a.m. 大霸尖山登山服務站,這邊會有管理者收取入園證並放行登山客。
Mount Dabajin service center at trailhead of Dalulin road, there will be staff to check whether you have park permit or not, then let you access into trail.

大霸尖山登山服務站Mount Dabajin service center
登山口 Trailhead

8:00 a.m. 我跟夥伴們使用人力推車來載三個人的重裝背包(´・ω・`)   完全手拉的推車,大約三人的背包有30幾公斤重,取代直接背在背後,跟夥伴輪流手拉車。
Instead of backpacking on back, my partners bring the small trolley to carry all backpacks for 3 persons, then 3 of us can pull it manually by turns.

手推車照! Small trolley

由於大鹿林道禁止登山客使用交通工具,除了特殊人員之外,都要靠自己的力量背負重物進去,這邊使用人力手拉車,會稍微輕鬆一點。
Basically Dalulin road inhibit any transportaion to access , except some people are working here or else, everyone need to carry on their own backpacking to get through this 17 km. Here we use the small trolley to pull it manually, it’s a bit easier to walk on Dalulin road.

沿路景色 Scenery along the way

沿路都有小溪,作為飲用水或簡單炊煮都很方便
Along the Dalulin road, you will see creek many times and it’s pretty good if you need drinking water or cooking.

10K 附近 Around 10k in Dalulin road

11:48 a.m. 抵達東線瀑布,在10月中水量相當大。 Dongsian waterfall, it’s plenty of water at October.

東線瀑布 Dong sian waterfall

附近有座工寮,裡頭有協作擺放的衣物跟物品,那時剛好有九九山莊的太陽能板電池搬運工程,住了不少工人於此。
Near the Dong sian waterfall, there is small house living the people who working here in recent.

12:39 p.m. 抵達岔路處,此處可續走平路至馬達拉溪營地,或者直切捷徑到營地,會少走2~3 公里。Arrived the branchroad, one is to keep going Dalulin road to Madalaxi campground and another is to directly shortcut to Madalaxi campground. Shortcut help you to save 2~ 3 km to walk.

捷徑岔路處 Branchroad to shortcut
有人偷寫捷徑方向在柱子上 There is ” 捷徑“ on sign which meaning shortcut to Madalaxi campground.
綁布條的地方暗示捷徑方向了 , There are many sign on tree implying the way to shortcut

捷徑上的路 , Steep road in the shortcut route.

1:13 p.m. 抵達馬達拉溪營地附近,有廁所可以使用
Arrived Madalaxi campground, toilet here could be used for free.

廁所 Toilet

2:30 p.m. 過橋後準備要上攀約700公尺多到九九山莊
After passed the red bridge, it’s time to go uphill with elevation 700 m to nine nine cabin. Actually it’s quite late to departure from here, my partner and i were cooking lunch for 1 hour.

路上還有門牌的工寮.

開始陡升的山路
Steep road along the Dabajin trail

中途有片許多二葉松的森林, There are Pinus Taiwanensis forest on the way

5:30 p.m. 抵達九九山莊,此時已經有許多隊伍都已經到了再吃晚餐。
Arrived nine nine cabin, there are many hiking groups already arrived and ate dinner in lobby.

九九山莊 Nine Nine Cabin.

室內用餐的環境
Lobby for cooking and eating.

我跟同行夥伴一起買布農協作的餐,一晚餐+一早餐+睡袋總共1000NT/一晚,
晚餐有靚魚,滷排骨,小黃瓜,香腸,高麗菜,雞腿肉。
My partner and i were booking the dinner/breakfast from indigenous people who especailly provide cooking service in nine nine cabin. This service needs to book 3 days ago before departure, and it takes 1000 NT for breakfast ,dinner and sleeping bad for rental per night.

Dinner at nine nine cabin cooked by indigenous people who working here. It has Mackerel fish, sausage, cuecumber, chicken, cabbage and pork.

雖然餐點不算是非常好吃,但光是要背上這些食材並大火加熱過,能夠在高山上吃到這樣溫暖的晚餐,已經很感激了。

九九山莊內部有蒙古包還有大型通舖。
Several Mongolian yurt and wide bed for a numbers of people in nine nine cabin as below pictures.

mongolian yurt 蒙古包
多人通鋪房型 Wide bed for a number of people

由於上來的時間點剛好處於疫情期間,山屋住宿人數限制為原數量一半,確保大家分開睡,而實際狀況是我睡的這一區僅有兩隊人,其他全是空的(如下圖)

多人通鋪內空間

第一天歷經快12小時且近天黑才抵達山莊,渾身汗臭下,好在九九山莊內有提供簡易洗澡間,可以冷水擦澡,雖然很冷但身上粘膩感消除後舒適很多。
It’s grateful that Nine nine cabin provide simplified shower room, helping hikers to wash out all sweat on body. Very appeciated that i feel much better after that. Even it only has freezing cold water for shower, it’s still helpful.

簡易洗澡間 Simplified shower room

Second Day Morning – 第二天一早
4:00 a.m. 其他隊伍從半夜一點開始就在整隊出發非常吵雜,我的隊伍則是繼續睡到三點多,再緩慢的去大廳吃協作準備的早餐,有滿福堡夾火腿,肉鬆,竹筍,起司
my partners and i were woke up late, all of other hiking group already departure. Indigenout people prepare warm breakfast for us, it includes hamburger buffet, bamboo, cheese and etc.

早餐 Breakfast

5:25 a.m. 即將破曉的早晨,出發往大霸尖山
Almost sunrise… departure from nine nine cabin

6:00 a.m. 抵達往加利山岔路
Arrived the branchroad of Jiali mountain.

續行往大霸尖山
Keep straight to Mount Dabajin

當天天氣十分良好,晴朗又乾燥的氣候,走起來特別心曠神怡
At second day, weather is stable and sunny around Dabajin area.

走在稜線上的風景
Scenery on the ridge of Dabajin trail

8:00 a.m. 抵達中霸山屋,這邊想提一件事,裡頭有個緊急用箱子,裡面提供簡易糧食跟高山瓦斯,食物還不少。
Arrived Zhongba cabin(中霸山屋), here has an emergence box packing cookie/instant noodle/liquid gas canister…etc for people who really need it.

中霸山屋 Zhongba cabin

裡頭還有高壓艙
There is hyperbaric oxygen chamber inside cabin as well.

8:17 a.m. 來到中霸坪,不免俗的要跟500元一起合照一張啦!
Arrived Zhongba lawn, Taiwan 500 bill has Mount Dabajin picture, and which was taking shot here.

Zhongba lawn 中霸坪

石松科的玉柏 , 輕拍一下會有許多粉跑出來
Lycopodium obscurum,Many powder comes out if you touch it…

8:45 a.m. 抵達大霸尖山前,壯麗的景色非常驚人,搭配背後的藍天,這座山為當地泰雅族的聖山,自從數年前就禁止人們攀登頂部了,而最早在日治時期,就有記錄日本人率原住民與各路攀岩好手登頂,在1900年代日本人在台灣掀起一股登山熱。
Arrived Mount Dabajin, blue sky with huge Dabajin is super impressive and amazing to see it. This mountain is holy to local Taiya tribe so its summit inhibit to reach several years ago since 2010. In very earliest period in 1900s, Japan occupation period, Japanese were reach to summit then and super popular to attracts many people to come for hiking.

在數十年前,還可以攀登山頂時,在大壩後方架設了許多釘子,現在已經拆除。
Several decades ago, people setup many ropes at backside of Mount Dabajin. Now they already were torn down to prevent people climbing up.

往小霸尖山的稜線. Ridge to Xiabajin mountain (小霸尖山)

往小霸尖山最後一段,需要攀岩在陡峭的地形上,一不小心還是可能會踩空掉落。
Last trail to Xiabajin mountain, it needs to climb on rocky terrain and pretty ricky.

回望大霸尖山
Looking to the direction of Mount Dabajin.

10:00 a.m. 抵達小霸尖山山頂,當天天空恰好非常乾淨,在山頂甚至看到台北八里的觀音山,周圍的雪山圈谷和桃山品田斷崖盡收眼底。
Reach to summit of Xiabajin mountain. Luckily, sky is super clean with slight cloud, even partner and i can see Guan yin mountain(觀音山) in TAIPEI bali (台北八里)which is far away from here.

小霸尖山 Xiabajin mounatin

在山頂可見遠方(照片左邊後方), 清楚可見有南湖大山山頂與中央尖山山頂。
Mount Chungyangjian and Mount Nanhu both are clearly see from here, it’s at left side of below picture.

回程在竹林間可見往雪山的岔路,即聖稜線。
During head back to nine nine cabin, branchroad to Syue mountain(雪山)which is famous holy ridgeline in Taiwan.

往雪山的岔路,Way to Holy ridgeline and Syue mountain

回程路上下午一點準時開飯,炒了個蝦米香菇高麗菜,香味四溢。
1 p.m. Start cooking lunch, i just fried the cabbage with mashroom and small shrimp and it smells really good.

5:00 p.m.終於返回到九九山莊,路上不斷湧起因熱氣遇冷凝結上升的朵朵白雲
Finally back to nine nine cabin, there are many cloud generating and up to hill

回到九九山莊 Back to nine nine cabin

第三天一早 6:00 a.m. 因為行程不緊湊,四處晃晃看有什麼設施,剛好看到剛架好的太陽能板,螺絲跟配件都非常極度新,難怪第三天開始手機訊號就變得非常好。
Third day – wake up at 6 a.m. and wander around nine nine cabin, then just found the new solar panel setup completly in recent. No wonder cell phone signal become super well today.

新架好的太陽能板

7:00 a.m. 出發
Departure

下切後完續走大鹿林道,在這個季節10月,有許多小木通開花了 (・∀・)
Dalulin road has many Armand Clematis  in October (・∀・)

在回程路上的風景,依然很曬但很美

4:30 p.m. 抵達登山口回家,這一路感謝夥伴們一路的陪伴與支持,一起分享路上的各種風景,還有注意彼此身體狀況與支援,很高興在這個年紀遇到可以一起爬大山的夥伴 — 致 同行的夥伴

4:30 p.m. arrived the trailhead and ready to back home. Very grateful and appreciated that my partners company with me all the way and enjoy the magnificent view. Carefully check any hiking route and keep following weather prediction. i can’t have this journey without any of you.
—To my Partners.

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